2012年9月19日星期三

London Olympic Glow is not blurry



   Killing time before a show in Bloomsbury, I went to a bookstore here on the aptly named street shop, where I. A used copy of the story of Peter Ackroyd London A photo of a man with no Spitalfields in the East End stopped me cold: it was acquired in 1969. A wild guess would say Victorian era.

Of course, London has changed dramatically in just two decades, and reflect these changes, perhaps surprisingly, in the kind of fashion now produced here.

There are two main types: the internationally flavored brands like Burberry, Tom Ford, Stella McCartney and Mulberry. Some of these brands sell Britishness, but watched as Justine Picardie, the new editor of the British Harper Bazaar, outside the Burberry fashion show Monday is not enough. A brand heritage should also new flavors. Likewise, part of the charm of London to foreigners, privileged or not, it is his extraordinary sense of tradition.

The success of the Olympic Games - the city still feels on a good note - showed how this heritage. Have for Ms. Picardie, author of a biography very well preserved Chanel, can connect easily between the opening of Danny Boyle and the creative genius of Philip Treacy Show has to be made. Even in the absence of Lady Gaga, who wore a pink chiffon burqa Mr Treacy the end of Isabella Blow, and the costumes have once worn by Michael Jackson, a cap was himself: springs punk, lagoons straw, a huge saucer with yellow happy face.

"This is quintessentially British," said Ms. Picardie masterful mind Mr. Treacy.

Remarkable show Christopher Bailey at Burberry, is how he dunked energy of the city. He did it with color, metallic shades self - ink blue, fuchsia, copper, pink, green - what you see in the night from a bridge over the Thames. Bailey returns again and again to the trench coat, so it lighter, more brilliant for a new marauder. This time he cut the tight corset dress, satin pleated satin. Coloured bags drive may have been inspired by glass structures of the city.

Mr. Ford is also known to the international character of London, and his clothes, her best collection easier since he started his own women online, they open up with a new interpretation of the biker shorts, and takes classic jacket, a popover top with black trim black patent leather patches made.

The British Fashion Council, organizers of shows, is proud. On participation rates for foreign buyers and journalists So punctual are the shows that I've missed two of them, even if I, say, 20 minutes past the hour. In Paris or New York, you should just walk through the door.

Adult entertainment was very evident in the clothes too. Vivienne Westwood may be ending his show wearing tiny hot pants and waved a flag to the threat of climate change, his passion, but most designers, even young, seemed determined to wearable clothes.

Mary Katrantzou prints stamps come easily digestible forms. A new star was Simone Rocha simple dresses and separates made Eyelet and embroidered organza. Erdem lace dresses elegantly furnished neon these essential thrust. Jonathan Saunders immersed in solid blows to the show, while Paul Smith has a little bright color blocking.

But London, Gaga borrowed coat reminded people, is a city that thrives on the spirit and originality. This is the predominant type of other, very creative way that can stand on the world stage. Three collections are remarkable: Christopher Kane, Thomas Tait and JW Anderson.

Anderson clothing show an impressive quality of the hands, especially in the cup, and at the same time, a great sense of judgment. He knows what looks very cool. And he had some of the most coveted accessory of the season, as pockets lined quilted a flywheel idiot.

The Spirit of the Lord Tait is fairly modern, supported by a strong fashion sense. This season, he has a lot of mileage stretch satin, dyed in different colors and net for coats and ventilated shorts. Sports / hip-hop aesthetic meandered slowly through the striped knitwear, jersey pants and a sleek leather jacket motorcycle oversize. His talent is to integrate these forms sew a casual way, and steering clear of prettiness English garden.

"It's like a sea of ​​banality that all you need is a spark," Mr. Kane said before his magnificent sight. To generate these important spark, it combines the sensitivity childish scrawls new textures like gel (as in the gelatin) and wing nuts with a sense of sensuality.

Many designers have taken the idea of ​​a woman as a bound package. But Mr. Kane fitted dresses and costumes that were both portable and precise in her hot sexual tension. Of course, a pale pink coat appeared ready to shoot for a first lady or princess, but the strange tissue-like material you dare touch it.


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