London Fashion Week: Signs of the Times

  Creativity is great, "the title perfectly tight Vivienne Westwood Red Label show was (best read aloud with a cadenza by Alan Bennett) and if proof was ever needed, that this is the case, provided that the collections of London.

When the seasons were marked by political conservatism - fashion is nothing if not a cultural barometer - then, in the spring, the British capital is more anarchic and irreverent spirit comes to mind. The woman in question is not at home during a barbecue on Saturday afternoon in the Cotswolds, for example - it would still be in bed, thanks, but no thanks - and designers who understand her dress which overcomes most daring play-safe Tactics on the podium.

Louise Gray - a woman, for the Westwood and the movement it leads have been clearly is a source of inspiration, she is interested in dressing a woman whose wardrobe is proudly unique and is in no way partial play arm candy. Gray mood this season even as "art school" is defined and printed with leading newspapers and weaves collision with zigzag stripes, triangles, circles and squares, either monochrome or bright colors and unexpected combinations of fabric, it was certainly a sense of both Experiments and joy of doing things on the screen. In winklepickers mixing in violent tones, hats Stephen Jones and Tatty Devine jewelery - rings the size of small saucers reflect with scrawled words, including "happy" and "good times" - and the result was happy, full of spirit, and all brought but.

Gray is not the only designer looks, if not wholly evil, then certainly sooner with an attitude. Collection of Maarten Van Der Horst's first solo album podium hugging industrious spirit of punk, where Bright Young Things moved everyday and mundane. Cut designer shirts, shorts, dresses and raincoats on bags (Tesco, not Prada) and printed cotton utilities with Stephen Sprouse graffiti soot nodded.

Sister, brothers and sisters is not a label for the timid. Here is the French tradition toile print was reversed because it was populated by hooded rioters as opposed to something more pastoral. It looked pretty summer dresses and shirts that otherwise praised butter would not melt well modesty. Knitwear Cardigans Lacy came in neon colors were covered with skulls and gleaming white bark was woven into puffballs oversized. Woolworths Warrior was the name of the collection of masks and spider and pom-pom ears, the looters of the most impressive in the history of youth dressed in fashion.

Remember Sign of the Times, the shop tucked in the early nineties with garbage and incredibly ironic popular? With clubbers of London and Courtney Love to the same extent Henry Holland. His collection was made a leap forward and confident grunge, he says, and sewing verified strong acid tie-dye and floral separates, to rave culture.

"I feel sick," an editor who will remain anonymous in this week. And she's not alone. Jonathan Saunders, a designer known for this very discipline, chose this moment to his roots for a collection of graphic art at the Tate Modern underground (a hell of a place) return shown. IHat star sequin cardigans and skirts, dresses and chevron stripes bomber holographic leather and silk saw everything smooth and glamorous, but not in any way even remotely super polite. The back of the clothes were black - be radiant and enjoy significant benefits from an act sartorially gifted disappear behind it.

A pattern broken glass, finely chopped black leather and a threat Pegasus lent beauty Opposites Attract collection Giles Deacon showed that the fusion of romance and rigor that. A signature creator for today Deacon designs pieces instructions for modern women, but also for all their beauty, there is a surf rebel. "I like the idea of ​​Pegasus fire lightning down leader on Bond Street," said the designer.

"How is it? It's a miracle", Christopher Kane laughed backstage at his show. And in fact it was. There was a sweetness that was by the designer in his own words "a little sick" for a large part of this collection and narrow-based color dresses and skirts couture fabrics in particular. The latter were is stuck with sheets of plastic, rubber and top with jewelry from THERMOTAPE black and white finish, however, confirmed that look a little or a lot. Perpsex Nuts and Bolts came in place of traditional ties, combining sensitivity art school (again) with a degree of perfection that is unparalleled. Terms of full-on Frankenstein-printing T-shirts - an afterthought, says Kane - do not be surprised if they sell before you buy.

Truly exquisite - wardrobe, women, boudoir hallucinogenic Meadham Kirchhoff a bridge too wonder went with their empty eyes, shining hair with jewels and exquisite pin-curled. This collection was the most referential designer. "Almost embarrasingly yes", Meadham joked. It was also their best, but. The decorative view shameless Christian Lacroix, John Galliano novel nineties, the Baroque splendor of Gianni Versace eighties were all very prominent and so was the hand of Vivienne Westwood, perfectly adequate. It almost goes without saying, one they are heroes and heroines of fashion and everything. Given the budget, the novice designers in London to work with this tiny, elaborate Edwardian jackets and online folds diminutive skirts and lace patchwork dresses are a standard that would be the little hands in delight hand-finished workshops of Paris, is the result even more impressive.

The spirit of Isabella Blow, starring Lady Gaga presided show Philip Treacy, where wardrobe Michael Jackson will be auctioned later this year. Collaboration with Savile Row beggars and cropped pants with inspiration courtesy of Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen It's a line-up, to be reckoned with and recalls London sensation courage of his convictions of merchantability won every time. He says something Treacy capacity as creative as his headgear gravity defying sculptural not been overshadowed by the machinations of the theater. A wreath - even for Gaga - polished gold horns and a circus light-up ball with a cap all the prisoners themselves, and recalled that the unbridled imagination coupled with a strong blend of brazen courage.

Still in London, Marios Schwab showed the continuing appeal of a little black dress. The nature of this classic wardrobe was set aside, but set adorned as it spiked with shiny black velvet and leather was. JW Anderson, meanwhile, mixed forms of clothing and fabrics with ruffles grossly oversized modern.

And what dominate Dame Westwood herself, the woman who started everything well and continue the fashion season in London like no other before or after? And the garden party in particular - his show, she said, was inspired by the English garden, but the sweetness of the delicate floral, striped summer dresses and has been weakened by the raw energy soundtrack courtesy of a live model and muse time Westwood-turned-muso, Sara Stockbridge, not to mention the models faces painted pink, sky blue and chartreuse green and clean appearance, especially designers. She was brilliant in cotton boxers, "Climate Revolution" T-Shirt Oversized helmet wrapped in a veil of bronze sequins.