2013年9月6日星期五
Bagheads : Chapman brothers and designer Kim Jones give a classic dark key Louis Vuitton luggage
The style director for men suggests someone polite , sophisticated ,miu miu shoulder slightly oily , tanned color and texture of the skin Vuitton Monogram Canvas . In the heat of summer in Paris , it would be perfectly pressed clothes and shoes crocodile handbag dressed . May be involved in a bond.
Kim Jones , Louis Vuitton men's style , however, is down in jeans - at - heel, coach , a sweatshirt . "I 'm really lazy - I only wear navy , because it's easy ," admits Jones and delivered the ultimate fashion no-no : "It really does not matter what I wear . "
Again, most of its design team of Louis Vuitton did not look like they should be Louis Vuitton. I visit the studio 24 hours before his Spring / Summer 2014 will be presented in Paris. Several floors above the elegant label headquarters rue du Pont- Neuf, there is an attachment to the carelessness of the design studio Vuitton men stacked on tables with pieces of cloth , trash drifts a shortage of milk for coffee.
The epicenter of the neck is clean desk Kim Jones and the Eye of the Storm of Bric -a- Brac is the designer himself , the man who f for the creation of menswear valuable luxury brand goods in the world - £ 16700000000 , according to the latest figures . If Jones is not dress the part , it is also not working , which is refreshing. In fact, before we sit to talk , carries me through Jones in the studio where fittings for the parade are underway to introduce to me to stylist Alister Mackie and most of the men's team before show rummage through racks and speaks to me through the minutiae collection . I have been a lot of designers ' studios on the night before the show , big and small. The height of the rebound - Outside the Walls enthusiasm Jones is not standard.
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There is no size Jones, not a world-weariness , boredom destroy every false effort behind his work. He says " like" a lot : He loves his job, he loves the sale of clothing , he loves Louis Vuitton opportunities it offers as a designer. And these opportunities are , it seems, endless - so endless , perhaps , like the Louis Vuitton bags are bottomless. Only two years after his term at home , Kim Jones cashmere developed neoprene butter kid vest, and done pretty much everything that can be done to crocodile. For fall / winter, it's a fox fur silk was created lasered with leopard spots in the skin for the next spring woven with minute tapes pearl in the LV logo to create a smoking Monogram iridescent. It will cost about £ 68,000 .
But for all the wealth , Louis Vuitton, by Kim Jones 's own words , " a travel agency. " This may seem a bit like Thomson Holidays , but Jones means that the root of the brand will travel . The original Mr. Louis Vuitton started his business as a trunk -maker and packer for the Empress Eugenie in 1854, when plenty of clothes and the size of the crinoline requires a deft hand and a large luggage for any kind of trip . Vuitton always put " Malletier " - Malletier - under their logo is why Jones and Louis Vuitton seem like a perfect fit : The trip is in his blood was Jones, English father , his Danish mother, although born .. in London in 1979 , he grew up in Africa, " I have always traveled - . I traveled a lot , since I was three months old ," Jones said. "It's something to think what I could never do that. I love it , new countries, new places I like . There are very few places in the world, I would not go back. " It was in Bali for three weeks in the summer, and then went to Paris, London and America , there is a trip to Japan - . 70th in the last 10 years .
It's Wanderlust is the fuel for Vuitton collections " . Inspired Jones between Tokyo and Paris circuit , but in the fall / winter 2013 show was even the remotest Jones. " The first for spring 2012 was Africa , the second , often stolen Went in the Himalayas , "he begins , since for a break now - . Bhutan is not a favorite mode of communication ports.
Jones winter collection , meanwhile, was the most luxurious . It contained not only leopard engraved fox , but the first cooperation Vuitton menswear with contemporary art : Jake and Dinos Chapman , modern f brothers dark art , turned her hand to luxury .
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It is entirely appropriate : the only place less likely to register on the radar of fashion that Bhutan an NCP car park in Soho , where Chapman who is her studio in central London . The Chapman are no strangers to fashion - she worked with Lee Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney - and Vuitton has worked with everyone from Takashi Murakami , Richard Prince Daniel Buren , but all women's collections . "That's the really great thing that we can actually do things like that ," says Jones. "I have known Jake for a long, long time and I really , really love, and I love her work Cute creatures are scary my favorite thing , and things McDonalds - . It" .
For Chapman, Vuitton should be a kind McDonald mode so ubiquitous and instantly recognizable as the insignia of the chain faster than the pair features a number of sculptures in wood restoration in 2002 logo. Although there is no logo in collaboration Vuitton / Chapman. Instead, Jones asked Chapman, offer visions of twisted monsters mountain. " It was a very vague suggestion that we might like to put some of our imagination on some of their imagery ," says Dinos Chapman , vague. Incidentally, Dino is singular - the day of our interview was scheduled , Jake was in the hospital after an altercation with a soil that remain his arm in a sling and left . Although there are a requisition Vuitton scarf -print Chapman duty to serve . But I digress. " Kim said," We love your impressions of your monstrous animals , "" continues Dinos . " So it is very obvious that we should ... I do not believe that Kim would ask if he have no idea what would happen had . "
" It was really good for this season to do it ," Jones said. "These crazy animals of the Himalayas really with what they are doing , if it meets enough of an adjustment , it really works. Timing for me is a lot of what we do in this industry. "
The market for men's fashion world with a rate of 14 percent per year is growing - almost double the growth of women's clothing . The timing could not be more right for Jones to raise the bar . Especially when you consider that consumers have become more demanding of their brands : more clothes , more ideas and more luxury.
" Menswear is an important part of society Harrods, with buyers looking for luxury , exclusivity and an exceptional shopping experience ," says Marigay McKee , Chief Dealer Harrods , which tripled their male Vuitton room Louis sales this year . The fact that more luxury, in turn, requires more money , does not seem to be a problem. " We do this ," said Jones , Hair Removal New Jersey T- shirt Chapman impression that door (a special -off for Dover Street Market Ginza ) . "This is a simple matter of price range to buy. , But we thought it would make a lot more interesting , elegant evening . Truth mode super luxury living . "
This meant reinterpretation Design Chapman as dandy in a variety of fabrics clobber - engravings, of course, but also jacquard and brocade. Design a complex animations with chintz Chapman of the grotesque , has been called " the garden in hell " - a reference to the retina scorching scarlet chintz , which plastered the apartment in New York's famous Vogue editor Diana Vreeland , but also a decent reef own work to the Chapmans . Some wag seat must be happy in LV . Come Male Show in January broke the "hell" in the final design in slim cut loose brocade tuxedo jackets , pajamas hard drives and silk dresses. Later , Marc Jacobs, artistic director of Louis Vuitton - took his bow at the Fair Women's Clothing House in March wearing a pajama set , the ultimate seal of approval - and in fact , the head of Jones.
A fine embroidered velvet bag : Being Vuitton Vuitton should lead the cooperation in a bag. What would it take? "I think the best use for one of these bags is to carry a lot of money , " deadpans Dinos Chapman. Run , in fact, the price tag on this garden hell bags on the stature of an impression Chapman signed . " There is a common territory ," said Dinos . "If you buy a print , the artist does not really hit, but still buy into this artist so you know , it's relatively cheap - . , And I think the people who buy bags are the kind of people that the work to buy. So I do not think it's a new market , it is part of the same market. I do not know who to buy one of these bags , with the exception of one person who might have a sculpture. , completes a circle. sculpture, photography, you really should the bag . "
It is a new variant of the old " saw the movie , bought the T-shirt goes to a new league of creativity and wait. Only a handful of the bag is to be construed . " When people buy something at this price, they do not want millions of other people have , "says Jones. " Vuitton the really interesting thing is that they do not understand the different levels of customer There are things people need from them . My demographic is 16 to 80 " .
It was not always the case for Jones : his own label , founded in 2002 after graduating from Central Saint Martins menswear was influenced by the London club scene . Sports - oriented inclination was closer to the 16 -year-old end of the spectrum , as his collaboration with Topman and Umbro . None of them seem very Vuitton, but now Jones approach , mixing it with the soil - for example , designed a seemingly simple white plimsoll from a confusing mix of python, crocodile and lizard - was born in this context sportswear. " Years ago I thought it was important to mix everything ," Jones said. "I 'm interested in this idea of personal luxury , you know what it is , and people who are interested to know what it is, but it should not be overstated. "
Really, what are collections Jones is not only traces his explorations around the world ( " you do not live very long," he added. " And I'd really like to see the world before I go " ) , but worldwide luxury Vuitton. In his trews scruffy navy blue, this is a world that is not related to Jones that seems Bhutan . "We take our advertising around the world ," says Jones , smiling and a little incredulous , " and clients say , ' Oh, we booked our holiday to go because it looked so cool air ! " It is good that this hit points. And I am very aware of trying to appeal to really help people who have this lifestyle. "
It is easy to see its collections like postcards - or even love letters - from this universe . Wish you were there? Join the waiting list. Miu Miu Tote
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